NV R Pouillon Brut Réserve, Mareuil-sur-Äy, Champagne

$49.99 $44.99

70% pinot noir, 15% each chardonnay & pinot meunier, sourced from all of the family’s holdings in the grand cru of Äy and along the Marne river, fermented with a touch of oak; primarily assembled from the 2011 vintage with about 30% older reserve wines; disgorged spring 2014.  A fine introduction to the stylish and energetic wines of Fabrice Pouillon; also more elegant and site-specific than Big House NV Brut that costs twice as much.  Check out the MV Solera and the 2006 2xOZ for more of Fabrice’s derring-do.


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Although the Pouillon family has for over a century grown grapes in Champagne, the modern history of the house begins in 1947, the first vintage bottled by Roger Pouillon under his own imprimatur.  In 1964 his son James joined the family business and updated the cellar, followed in 1998 by grandson Fabrice, whose wholesome and thoughtful approach to farming is plainly seen in the robust health of his vines.  Today, Fabrice manages all of the Pouillon family parcels in the Vallée de la Marne, Épernay, and the Montagne de Reims; he also makes the wines, his entire production bottled under the family name.  It is rare in Champagne for a grower to do business with neither Grande Marques houses nor négociants, and something of which to be proud also.

Fabrice has one foot planted in his family’s heritage and the other in their future (and if you’ve been paying attention, firstly thank you for that and secondly, you’ll notice that this multifaceted, multi-dimensional aspect is recurrent among many of the producers we’ve chosen to feature at Kickshaw, if not all of them).  The near-aristocratic, fin de siècle character of his NV Réserve (easily enjoyed au chateau but no doubt tastier parmi les communards) reflects his respect for the tradition of Champagne, while the top-down innovation of wines like the MV Solera and (especially) the 2006 “2Xoz” shine a (discreet) spotlight on his boundless creativity.




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