We aren’t exactly old at Kickshaw, but the days when one could purchase superior-quality Champagne like Forest-Marié for under $60 seem so long ago that we’re beginning to wonder where all the good times went. While we readily admit that our initial attraction to these wines was based solely on the value they offer, now that we have all gotten better acquainted we’ve come to appreciate them for what they really are: quietly stylish, refreshingly authentic, and every bit as deserving of their rightful spot amongst the “consequential” wines made by more Titanic contemporaries (if and as much as any grower/producer can shoulder such hyperbole). We hope that drinking Forest-Marié will make you feel as un-old as we do when we drink it, but if you’re already un-old or otherwise not in need of further youth somehow, the worst thing that can happen when you open a bottle is that you’ll get to drink some absolutely stellar Champagne without having to refinance again. Cheers.
NV Forest-Marié Brut Tradition, Trigny, Champagne
Equal parts chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier; blended primarily from the 2006 and 2007 vintages with 10% older reserve wine. We are almost more obsessed with what this Champagne is not than with what it is. It is not trendy: no evidence of batonnage or the other Burgundian techniques so à la mode in Champagne arises on its palate. It is not painfully dry: its healthy-but-appropriate dosage adds flesh to the fruit character, and in turn, versatility with food. It is not flashy: for some reason it reminds us of Paul Simon. Best of all, it is not expensive: relatively speaking, of course, but the quality/price ratio of all the Forest-Marié wines is off the charts. We love these wines.